The Fish Station Earns Its Price
Amalfi is a Strip-side Italian room operating at celebration-meal prices, inside the territory where the valley's hospitality workforce and the tourist trade share the same floor. The room is built to impress, the design registers as beautiful on arrival, though the Amalfi Coast association is more nominal than evocative. Service runs at the level the price point demands, and that part of the contract holds.
The fish station is the room's anchor and the most defensible reason to spend at this tier. The selection reads as serious: the product is worth ordering around, and the station gives the kitchen a live-product centerpiece that most Strip Italian rooms never bother to build. Treat it as the organizing principle of the meal rather than an afterthought.
The pistachio sundae is the other clear standout. In a room where the broader Italian kitchen runs toward competent rather than exceptional, the sundae lands as the moment the kitchen actually commits to a point of view. It is the dish that earns mention when the rest of the menu doesn't.
The wine program leans into Italian sparkling, and franciacorta by the glass is available at the bar, an unusual move for a room at this price point and a signal that the beverage program has some ambition beyond the standard Champagne default. The bar itself is a real room within the room, not a waiting area.
For the price, the kitchen's general output reads as uneven. The fish station and the sundae hold the line; other dishes trend toward average. The room rewards selective ordering rather than a sweep of the menu. Strip-side Italian at this tier always carries a premium for the address. Amalfi's version of that deal works best when the order is built around what the room actually does well.
