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New American

Spago

Celebration dining and weekend brunch on the Strip, when the occasion justifies the room.

Open until 10 PM $$$$ Upscale DiningDate NightBrunch Spot
6.3/10
№ 50 on the List Issue № 137 · 6 wks · Scored by Hal Brennan Full List →
№ 01 · The Brief

Puck's Bellagio Room Still Sets the Standard

Spago at the Bellagio is the Strip's long-running argument that celebrity-chef dining can still earn its price. Wolfgang Puck planted his flag here years before the boulevard filled with marquee names, and the room has outlasted most of its imitators. The operating pattern is straightforward: reservations are essential, the room books tight, and the occasion tends to justify the logistics.

The smoked salmon pizza is the signature, and it has been for a reason. The combination reads as counterintuitive on paper and correct on the plate, the kind of dish that defines a restaurant because it has no obvious analogue elsewhere in the valley. Duck confit follows the same logic: classical French technique anchored to a menu that moves between American and European influences without losing its footing. Neither dish is a relic; both hold the room's identity together.

Weekend brunch draws its own crowd. Eggs Benedict is the vehicle, but the appeal is the complete occasion: the Bellagio setting, the window views, the service register that matches a celebration meal. Birthday parties and anniversary dinners fill the dining room alongside visitors who planned the reservation weeks out. The room rewards that kind of planning.

Price sits firmly at the high end, which positions Spago clearly. This is not the off-Strip neighborhood room that feeds the valley on a Tuesday. It is the Strip expense-account room and the special-occasion destination, doing that job with a kitchen and a front-of-house that have sustained the standard long enough to make the price defensible. The Strip has a thousand dining options; Spago has held its lane since before most of them existed. That longevity is its own statement.

№ 02 · What to Order

The order, from the record

№ 03 · Insider Tip
!

Reserve well in advance; the room books out consistently, especially for weekend brunch. The smoked salmon pizza is the order that has defined this kitchen since the beginning.

Hal Brennan · Top of Las Vegas
№ 04 · The Verdict

What earns the 6.3

01
The signature dish holds

The smoked salmon pizza remains the room's clearest statement of what Puck's kitchen does that others on the Strip do not.

02
Brunch earns the occasion

Weekend brunch draws celebration crowds for good reason; the setting and service match the price for milestone meals.

03
Longevity as verdict

Spago has outlasted the celebrity-chef era it helped define, which is the kind of track record the Strip rarely produces.

The record

Insider Score history

On the List 6 wks Current № 50
How we score

The Insider Score is our own 10-point editorial rating, set by the writer who covers the room. It is never an average of other sites’ stars, and it is never for sale. It weighs three things:

01Track record

How highly a kitchen rates, across how many diners, over how long.

02Consistency

Whether recent diners still agree with the long-term verdict.

03Distinction

What the kitchen does that its category does not.

Spago earns a 6.3, solid on our scale for New American in Las Vegas.
Hal Brennan
Hal Brennan
Editor at Large

Hal covers the rooms that earn their reputation the hard way: the long-running kitchens, the specialists, the places Las Vegas quietly agrees on. His reviews start with the record and end with a reason to go.

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